So this section covers how I made the under satin dress to this homemade wedding dress.
This part of the dress is was the easiest of all – After I made the pattern it was truly easy sailing. The pattern I had was for a bridesmaids dress but I made alterations to make it a wedding dress. I followed the basic dress instructions to finish the dress. I made it in two dresses – the satin dress first and then another dress from lining – then finished them by sewing them together.
1. Start with the bodice from satin, as you sew together the pieces of the bodice ensure that both your shoulders are the same width.
2. Once you sew together the top start on the back, again ensuring that the back straps match with the front straps. Sew together on one side – leave the other side open for the zip.
3. Construct the skirt, making sure that you leave the side seam open for you zip.
4. Sew together the bodice and the skirt of the dress – leaving one side open for the zip.
5. Finish all seams.
6. Do steps 1-5 again with the lining.
7. With both dresses right sides together – the satin dress inside the lining, carefully pin around the neck and back.
8. Sew around the neck and back, carefully turn back in and try on. you should have both seamed sided inside the dress, the right side should be outside (obviously) and lining against your body should be the right side of the lining so it is comfortable against your skin.
9. If you are happy with the neck and back line and it is even, turn back inside out. Once inside out clip and notch the back and neck line. (clip and notch means to cut out little triangles in the seam allowance – not cutting the seam. once you turn out the right way the neck line will sit flat instead of being bubbly)
10. Turn the right way out and admire your work! You are nearly done! At this point you need to work out if you want to keep your lining – because the bodice is sewn to the dress you can’t take it out and it looks much better with lining. But you don’t need to have it all the way to the ground! When Jess tried on this dress we found it was really hot with the lining to the floor, so we cut off the lining at the knee. It made a big difference!
11. Insert the zip in the side opening – I put in an invisible zip.
12. By hand fold in about 6 mm of both the satin and lining to the inside of the dress. Do this so they are not visible, pin as you move around the armhole. Top stitch around the armhole, starting and finishing under the arm. Repeat for the other arm.
13. Hem the dress, now I did this by hand because I wanted it to be as invisible as possible. If you are keeping your lining to the floor I would recommend you hem the lining into the dress especially at the back of the train. (If you aren’t going to clip up the back to dance then that’s not really necessary.
14. Jess did want to be able to clip up the back of the train so she could dance! So to do this I added a pearl button which I sewed onto the middle of the back seam about mid thigh.
The point of clipping up the back of your dress is so that you don’t ruin the back of the train but also so you can walk/dance easily. We did it so the dress skirt hung in a fan and covered the inside of the dress.
15. Have the dress hung up on a door and pinch the fabric up to match the button. You want the skirt of the dress to cover the folds and to fall in line with the rest of the hem line. Place a pin at the pinch make – this is where you will make you loop to go over the button.
16. To make the loop thread a needle and knot the end. Starting on the inside, create about 5 loops around your finger, all the same size. Starting at the base of the loop, tie a knot to tie all the loops together. Working your way around the loop and make the knots nice and tight. Once you are finished all around the loop, tie it off at the back of the of dress.
17. There you have it you are finished! If you are going to make an lace over view then I would leave step 11 -14 until you are finished the lace – that way you can be sure everything at the bottom sits properly.
Please watch out for my Step 3 for how I made the lace overlay, it will be done shortly! But also check out these posts about the wedding dress too!
The beautiful wedding photos are from www.Thurtell.com
The other steps are here
Or the important sewing tips for the professional look
15 Hot Tips